RESOURCES: SETTING CHAIN LINK POSTS

How do I dig the post holes?

Depending on the slope of the terrain and accessibility, you will need to assess whether a mechanical auger or skid steer is appropriate. While a skid steer can reduce labor, it may not always be the safest option.

When digging the post holes, it is crucial to keep the auger vertical (plumb) to ensure that the holes are not dug at an angle. This is especially important when it comes to placing the posts. If the holes are dug at an angle, the posts will not align with the string as the bottom of the post will hit the side of the incorrectly angled hole. Consequently, in order to accommodate the post, you may need to resort to hand-digging.

To prevent the issue mentioned earlier, it is recommended to have a spotter use hand signals to guide you when moving the auger left to right or forward and back. With practice, you can become familiar with the auger's pitch and make these adjustments on your own.

It is crucial to check the depth of the holes each time you dig them or mark your auger to the appropriate depth. Additionally, you should be cautious of dirt falling back into the hole after digging, as this may require unnecessary hand digging.

How do I know what height to set my post? 

If your fabric is to rest on top of the grade, follow the industry standard for setting chain link fence posts. 

Terminal posts:                       2” above the height of the fence.

Line posts:                             3’ below the height of the fence.

Terminal posts with barbwire:    14” above the height of the fence.

Cantilever Gate Posts:             12” minimum above height of fence. 

                                            (More on this in the gate section.)

 

As with any standard, there are exceptions, the most common of which are listed below:

Terminal Posts:

1. Slope. If a fence is installed on a slope, the vertical distance between the top and bottom of the fabric will increase significantly. Therefore, it is crucial to adjust the height of your posts accordingly.
2. Three Way + Tie In. It is possible for multiple fence lines to attach to the same posts, necessitating extra post height to accommodate all of the end bands.
3. Step-up. When two fence lines meet and one rises to a higher elevation at the terminal post, it is necessary to set the terminal post at the higher elevation to ensure proper installation.
4. Gate Posts. It is important to consider the swing or slide of your gate when installing gate posts. In some cases, raising the gate posts may be necessary to ensure that the gate operates correctly, particularly when there is a curb or a change in grade where the gate closes.

Line Posts:

Slope. If a fence is installed on a slope, the vertical distance between the top and bottom of the fabric can increase significantly. As a result, the height of line posts must be adjusted accordingly. Even a slight 20-degree angle may require raising the post height by 4-5 inches.

How about pouring cement?

Cement can be obtained either by hand-mixing or from a ready-mix concrete truck. When working with Portland cement, it is important to wear safety glasses and a respirator to protect yourself from potential harm. If the cement comes into contact with your skin, it is essential to wash it off thoroughly to prevent skin damage. Portland cement is a chemical that can be harmful to the lungs, eyes, and skin.

When hand-mixing cement in an engine-powered mechanical mixer, a standard mix is 10 parts gravel to 1 part Portland cement. Mix the materials thoroughly and then slowly add water to achieve a consistency firmer than a milkshake. A one-yard mixer drum can hold approximately 30 scoops of gravel from a flat-edge shovel (not a grain shovel). When filling the fence hole with cement, be careful to avoid any overspill and unnecessary cement slag on the post. Wipe the post clean before the cement hardens to prevent the need for chiseling the cement from the posts at a later date.

If using cement from a concrete truck, take the following preparatory steps. 

1. It is recommended to pour concrete from the highest elevation downwards. This helps to minimize any jolting of the truck and allows the driver to control the truck's movement more smoothly while operating the clutch. When going downhill, the driver can use the brakes with less fatigue and greater control, ensuring a safer and more efficient pour.
2. Pour the concrete always from the driver's side. This will improve the driver's visibility, ensuring better accuracy and attentiveness.
3. Use as many chutes on the truck as possible to reduce the force of the cement flow and increase control. Additionally, using multiple chutes allows for keeping cement on the chute while moving between holes.
4. Upon arrival of the truck, take a moment to check the consistency of the cement. It should be slightly thicker than a milkshake. If needed, the driver can add up to fifty gallons of water to make the cement more fluid for easier pouring down the chute.
5. It's important to communicate with the driver and discuss the hand signals that they use for releasing/engaging the chute, spinning the barrow to discharge concrete, slowing down the barrow, and stopping the barrow. There are specific hand signals that should be used when communicating with the driver to ensure safe and efficient delivery of the concrete.
6. Align the concrete truck in such a way that the chute is almost perpendicular to the truck and ends just a short distance away from the fence line. This allows you to move the chute easily from hole to hole and maintain clear communication and visibility with the driver.
7. Gradually pour the cement into the hole using a paddle. Make sure to move the string line away from the hole to avoid any cement from splashing back and hitting you in the face. Once the hole is filled, wedge the paddle in place to prevent any cement from sliding off the chute while moving to the next hole.
8. If you find that the portland cement is sticking to the chute and causing difficulties in pouring, you can add water to the mix. Adding one gallon of water per one yard of concrete can increase the slump, or fluidity, by about one inch, making it easier to pour.
9. If you notice concrete coming out of the chute too quickly and forming lumps between the holes, stop the truck and ask the driver if they can slow down the barrow or if they have any other suggestions. Most drivers have poured thousands of yards of concrete and can offer valuable advice.

How do I stab the posts?

After marking all your posts to the proper height, and laying them out so as to avoid the concrete truck, perform the following:

1. Use a black permanent marker or crayon to clearly mark all the posts. Ensure that the marks are highly visible.
2. Verify that the string line is properly aligned and free from any obstacles.
3. Hold the level against the side of the post, then gently stab the post in the center of the footing with the post in your hand. Ensure that the post is about 1/4" off the string and on the correct side of the string. Never place the post against the string as it may push the string line out of alignment.
4. While keeping the post level, slowly twist it into the footing until the mark is at the same level as the ground. Avoid eyeing the post in prematurely.
5. Before moving on to the next post, confirm that the post is level in both directions and approximately 1/4" off the string.

How do I eye the posts into place? 

Someone once said that "a fence is judged by the eye so it should be installed by the eye." While this statement holds some truth, installing a fence is more than just relying on one's vision. It is important to ensure that the fence line is level and follows the appropriate measurements. However, a skilled fencer can also make the fence line appear more visually appealing by smoothing out any unevenness in the terrain. This skill takes practice and is difficult to explain in writing. Take a look at the three sets of posts to your right. Can you tell which fence line has been installed correctly?

The fence line on the left is misaligned, resulting in an "S" shape.

The fence line on the far right appears uneven due to some posts being set too high or too low, resulting in a jagged appearance from the side.

As for the fence line in the center, it features perfectly aligned posts that flow smoothly in and out of the fence line.

To accomplish this visual effect, there are several steps to follow:

1. Begin at one end of the newly marked fence line.
2. Check that the first three line posts are plumb and set to the correct height. Then, position yourself slightly above the first post (using a ladder or bucket if necessary) to get a good visual of the fence line. Think of it like sighting a rifle.
3. With you on the ladder behind the first three posts, have another person stand at the fourth post with a level. Instruct them to adjust the post height until the fence fabric flows evenly between the posts. As they do this, they should communicate how far the post is above or below the grade. You can raise or lower a post by up to 2 inches in either direction, but more significant adjustments may require filling in or scraping off grade to achieve a slight spike or pit in the fence line.
4. If you can't achieve the desired height, you may need to adjust the height of the next post or come back to the previous post and try again to blend the fence line.
5. Once you've achieved the correct height, instruct your assistant to push the post in or out to achieve vertical alignment.
6. Once the post is vertical, your assistant should re-level it within the fence line and gently compact the cement around the post to create a domed footing that sheds water away from the post. Then move on to the next post.
7. You can typically adjust the next five posts before needing to reposition your ladder. Always keep at least two posts that have been sighted-in ahead of you to use as a reference for the next five posts.

What about gate posts? 

When installing gate posts, it's essential to consider the following factors:

1. When setting posts for a swing gate, it's important to consider the highest point of elevation on the grade that the gate will pass over when it swings from fully closed to fully open. The difference in elevation between that point and the location where the gate post will be set should be added to the overall height of the post.
2. When installing cantilever gate posts, it's important to take into account the highest point the gate will reach when moving from fully open to fully closed. The difference in elevation between this point and the post location should be added to the post height. Additionally, since cantilever gates must roll on a level surface, the two roller posts should be set at the same elevation to create a level plane.

 

What are the most common safety obstacles to overcome when setting posts?  

The installation process of setting fence posts presents the greatest safety hazards. The following are the most common ones.

1. Back Injury.  This injury will most likely occur as a result of lifting posts, shoveling or from improperly using a mechanical auger, not bending at the knees and forcing the machine out of the hole. 
2. Equipment Injury.  Digging post holes involves using high speed, high powered augers that are driven by powerful motors and hydraulics.  You must stay clear of the moving parts or these augers can get twisted-up around clothing and limbs, causing serious injury.
3. Open post holes.  These create a fall hazard for you and others.  Never leave holes open overnight.