RESOURCES - BUILDING CHAIN LINK FENCE

Equipment:  2ea. come-a-longs, pliers, bolt cutters, chop saw or hand saw, wire rake for the appropriate height wire, speed wrench with ½” socket, and hammer.

Key Questions:

1. How do I install the fittings?
2. How do I install the top rail?
3. How do I roll-out and weave the fabric together?
4. How do I stretch the fabric?
5. How do I tie the fabric to the framework?
6. What are the most common safety obstacles to overcome when stretching fabric?

 

How do I install the fittings?  

Using the two charts above to identify fittings, install the fittings accordingly:

1. Begin by placing the tension bands on the fence, ensuring that the flat side faces outward. It's typical to use one tension band per foot of fence. The first band should be around 6 inches from the fence's bottom to accommodate the end bands, which will be discussed later. Space the remaining bands evenly apart.
2. The end band should be the last one you slip on, and it should be placed approximately 3 inches down from the top of the posts.
3. Put the rail end tab between the end band, with the cup side down, as indicated in the details. If it's a corner post assembly, one rail end will be cup side up and the other cup side down to ensure that the adjoining top rails align correctly.
4. Avoid distorting or spreading the bands to prevent misalignment of the bolt holes. Install the nuts and bolts (5/16" x 1 1/4") through the bands with the carriage head facing out. Only hand-tighten them for now.
5. Finally, place the loop caps (figure 8) on top of the line posts, ensuring that the top rail can slide down the fence line through the caps. The flat side of the caps should face outward.

How do I install the top rail?

1. Figure 12 shows how to attach the rail end fitting to the terminal post, and the end of the top rail should fit into this fitting. To join the top rail, slide the small end (swedged-in) into the larger end. If the rail isn't swedged, you'll need a sleeve to join the two sections from the outside of the rail.
2. When you reach the next terminal post, measure carefully and cut the top rail to fit. Measure from the end of the last piece of rail to the inside of the rail end. If the last piece of shortened top rail doesn't extend through a line post, place it between two full-length pieces, with the full-length section running into the rail end and through a line post. This will prevent the railing from collapsing when you attach the wire.
3. With the rail end turned up at a 45-degree angle, snap the top rail into the rail end cup for a snug fit (Figure 11). You may need to adjust the height of your rail end/end band combination to accommodate the grade. Once in place, tighten the end band around the rail end for a secure fit. 

How do I roll-out and weave the fabric together?  

Before installing the fabric, it's important to inspect the roll and identify the salvage. The salvage refers to how the fabric is tied together on the ends, which can be either knuckled over or twisted together. If one end is knuckled and the other is twisted, you need to determine which end goes on the top and which on the bottom. Once you have identified the salvage and determined the correct orientation, you can proceed with installing the fabric using the following steps:

1. Position the fabric roll with its bottom end closest to the post and perpendicular to your fence line, ensuring that it will be installed on the outside of the fence, corresponding to the flush side of your tension bands. Check if the fabric will easily roll out on the ground like a carpet. If not, you may need to start at the other end of your fence line to achieve this effect.
2. Once the fabric is in the correct position, stand the roll up about 3 feet from the terminal post and flush against the outside of the top rail.
3. Cut the ties holding the roll together and gently unroll the fabric until the beginning of the fabric is pulled up to your terminal post.
4. Tie the fabric for height by loosely installing one fence tie to the top of the fabric and around the top rail 8 inches from the terminal post and another tie in the same manner 24 inches from the terminal post. Make sure that you have a half diamond above the top rail when tying the fabric to the rail.
5. With the fabric tied for height, insert a tension bar through the end of the fabric, running it through the evenly spaced tension bands on the terminal posts.
6. Tip the fabric roll away from the top rail so that it lies perpendicular to the rail, then unroll the fabric along the fence line on the ground as if unrolling a carpet.
7. To begin a new roll, untie or unknuckle the weave at the end of the roll, and unscrew the weave out of the fabric with a corkscrew twisting motion until it is completely removed, as illustrated in Figure 14.
8. Place a new roll of fabric at the end of the existing roll, unroll it about three feet, and match the ends of the two rolls together. Then, start weaving the wire weave back into both pieces of fabric, catching both pieces with each full corkscrew twist.
9. It may be necessary to remove more than one weave to get the two pieces of fabric to mesh. If the two rolls begin with two complete diamonds on both sides, you will need to remove one more weave. However, if one roll begins with a complete diamond and the other with a half diamond, you can begin weaving the two rolls together with the wire weave you initially removed.
10. Once the rolls are woven together, tie or knuckle both ends to complete the process.
11. Repeat the process of rolling out fabric and weaving together until you reach the next terminal post or a distance of 200'.
12. If you reach the next terminal post, hand stretch the fabric by dragging it along the ground.
13. Shake the fabric like a rug while pulling it to break the galvanizing at the knuckles, ensuring it is tight and straight.
14. Pull the fabric past the terminal post, remove a weave at the post so that the fabric on the ground terminates at the post, and you are ready to stretch.

How do I stretch the fabric? 

Fence fabric should be stretched from the terminal post already attached to the terminal post at the other end of the line – or – at stretches less than two hundred feet.

1. Once the fabric is terminated at the terminal post, position a tension bar about five feet away from the unattached end of the fabric.
2. Attach a chain link wire rake to the tension bar while it is still lying on the ground, following the illustration.
3. Place the hook of the cable jack onto the center of the wire rake. Release the cable, so that the cable hook wraps around the middle of the terminal post at a height level. You can secure the cable in place using one of the tension bands.
4. Gradually turn the cable jack to apply tension on the wire while standing the fabric up against the post. Pull the bottom of the fabric out around 6 inches from the post to ensure it won't collapse. Note: If it's a windy day or the fabric is taller, you may need to use temporary ties or pull the fabric out further from the fence line.
5. When the fabric is fully standing and the cable jack is taut but not overly tight, lift, shake, and pull the fabric from the far end of the fence line towards the cable jack. Repeat this every ten feet.
6. Slowly crank the jack while maintaining tension on it and lifting and pulling the fabric.
7. Repeat this process until the fabric is properly tensioned. You will know you've achieved proper tension when you can barely squeeze the fabric together with one hand, leaving only a ¼-inch gap.
8. NOTE: Please note that any deformities or irregularities in the fabric, such as swoops, will be visible once the fabric is stretched. To prevent this from happening, ensure that the fabric is at the desired height both before and during stretching. Once fully stretched, it may be difficult or impossible to correct any issues.

9. After the fabric is fully stretched, it should be tied for height every ten feet to prevent it from creating waves or falling over. When tying the fabric, ensure that a half knuckle is present above the top rail.

10. Under the continued tension of the cable jack, pull the fabric firmly past the terminal post to determine where to remove a wire weave for tying the fabric into the terminal. Once you have identified the correct spot, remove the weave and tie the fabric for height 6 inches from the end. Make sure to pull the fabric in line with the tension bands and slide the tension bar through the evenly spaced tension bands and fabric at the same time.
11. Once tied in, slowly release the tension on the cable jack.  Remove the tension bar used to hold the cable jack.
12. Note: On short 10’ or less stretches or to assist in tying-in a longer stretch, use a Pul-jak.

How do I tie the fabric to the framework?

Unless you have specific instructions or drawings, fence ties should be placed 24 inches apart along the top rail and 16 inches apart on the line posts. 

1. To tie the top rail, ensure that the fabric is half a diamond above the rail. You can achieve this by leveraging the fabric into place with pliers placed above the top rail. For more challenging applications, one person may lift the fabric while another person ties it. Applying too much leverage on the top rail may cause it to swoop between the posts.
2. Insert the hook of the tie into the knuckle above the rail. Using pliers, pull up the end of the hook while pulling the tie down and around the top rail. Wrap the tie around the fabric as close to the post or rail as possible, avoiding large spans that create dents in the fabric.
3. Twist the tie around the fabric as far as you can with your thumb. Then, grab the loose end with your pliers and twist the end of the tie all the way around the fabric.
4. Make sure that both ends of the tie wrap around the fabric for a full 360 degrees. Do not over-tension or wrap the tie around the fabric, as this may cause the fabric to cave in at the tie and break the tie.
5. Repeat this process at the line post, starting 6 inches below the rail.

What are the most common safety obstacles to overcome when stretching fabric?

1. Lifting. When handling a roll of chain link fabric, it is important to prioritize safety and use proper lifting techniques. Avoid attempting to lift the wire onto your shoulders by yourself, as a roll can weigh anywhere from 50 to 400 pounds. Instead, seek assistance from others to ensure safe lifting practices.
2. Cuts. During manufacturing, chain link fabric may develop icicles from the dripping galvanizing. To prevent injury, wear gloves when handling the fabric and be mindful of grabbing the materials, especially when sliding the tension bar through the fabric. Be cautious not to pinch your hand between the fabric and bar. Additionally, when cutting the top rail, be aware of the sharp edges and burrs that may form.
3. Loose top rail. The top rail is loose on top of the post before tying the fabric to it. If it becomes dislodged, it can slide down the line post like a spear. It is important to wear safety glasses and hard hats and remain aware of your surroundings to prevent accidents.
4. The Wave. After erecting the chain link fabric, but before securing it, there is a significant risk of the fabric falling over and creating a wave effect that can sweep from one end of the stretch to the other, carrying a lot of weight and momentum that can cause serious injury to anyone in its path. It is essential to ensure that the fabric is pulled away from the posts and properly tensioned. In taller installations, temporary ties should be used every 10 feet. Additionally, all crew members should be educated about the potential for waves and instructed to yell "wave!" to alert others to clear the area.